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"Below Freezing: The Antarctic Dive Guide": Reviewed

Below FreezingA few weeks ago, we told you about Below Freezing: The Antarctic Dive Guide. Recently, I got my hands on a copy of this colorful little book, and I'm very impressed with it. This excellent Guide -- really, the only Guide of its kind -- is written by Lisa Eareckson Trotter, the first person to learn to dive in the Antarctic and a long-time crew member aboard Lindblad Expeditions' Endeavour. Having logged over 400 hours diving in area waters, Trotter's experience in and love for the region shines through on each and every page.

Featuring plenty of easy-to-read maps, and ultra-clear descriptions of 25 dive sites off the Antarctic Peninsula and South Georgia Islands, the Guide also sports hundreds of sparkling, eyebrow-raising photos -- most of which are vastly different from marine life images in other dive guides. Published by WILDGuides, a non-profit organization focused on wildlife conservation, the book carefully and lovingly describes the joys of diving in Antarctica's waters, while it simultaneously details the hazards of this bitter, harsh environment. In short, the 116-page soft cover book is one of the most unusual -- and one of the best -- dive guides around.

Trotter opens with a brief history of Antarctic diving (first dive: Willy Heinrich, 1902, who used a brass Siebe diving helmet and a canvas suit) and then provides a concise overview of Antarctica, the 5th largest continent. Trotter swiftly moves to the obligatory "How to Get There" section, but -- unlike most other Guides -- this section is surprisingly engaging. After all, while everybody pretty much knows how to reach, say, the Caribbean, I'd wager that very few people have even an inkling of how to reach Antarctica. (Hint: you'll likely leave out of Ushuaia, Argentina or Punta Arenas, Chile). Given the range of tour operators working in the region, from large cruise ships to small yachts, Trotter also provides practical tips on how to choose the operator that's right for you.

Understanding what her readers have come for, Trotter quickly gets to the diving. Understatedly claiming that Antarctica is "one of the most extreme diving environments on the planet," she underscores the minimum requirements divers must have (Advanced Open Water and Dry Suit Diver) and explains that diving here isn't like diving, well, anywhere else. While she admits that the area's ice diving isn't the 3-foot-wide-hole-in-the-ice diving you probably imagine it to be, she describes the abundant precautions local operators take to ensure diver safety. She also explains the kinds of equipment and topside gear you should expect to carry with you on a dive adventure in the Antarctic. Although lengthy, the list isn't all that surprising -- well, except for the Leopard Stick. More on that later.

Next comes "What to Expect," which explains typical marine life and underwater conditions, as well as your body's responses to diving in brain-freeing waters. She dismisses face numbness by saying it "usually lasts for about 2 minutes, after which a diver generally cannot feel the parts of the face exposed to the water." in other words, the pain is temporary. Asserting that although divers become used to the numbness, they frequently chew their mouthpieces to bits, since they can't feel their jaws at all. For many people, this section will serve as a bit of a reality check -- a cold bucket of water in the face.

Next, readers are treated to a "Special Note About Leopard Seals," an engaging treatise on the area's apex predator, and the only animal of which divers should be wary. Although only one human has died from a leopard seal attack, Trotter maintains that vigilance and preparation are key in not becoming the second victim. Hence, the need for a Leopard Stick.

Finally, we get to the dive site descriptions. Trotter discusses 25 dive sites, providing great maps, site conditions, history, and lots of stunning color photos of beautiful -- and often bizarre -- marine creatures. She includes a "what you might see" section broken thoughtfully into "above 7 meters" and "below 7 meters." There's also a valuable legend for each dive site, indicating, for example, if kelp is present; if you might encounter leopard seals; or if the surge is potentially dangerous. Though brief, Trotter's dive site descriptions give a sense of what each site is like.

The only criticism I have for this book is that the descriptions of the dive sites aren't very colorful. Trotter is a biologist and immunologist by training, and I think her writing often feels a bit clinical. Accompanying the text are so many awesome photos of marine life; I wish she had let the beautiful images inspire her to draft some more descriptive prose, painting pictures of the dive sites, as opposed to merely recounting them ("The descent to the bottom can be interesting, as there are often quite a few pelagic creatures..."). While adequate, the cool nature of her writing is sometimes a bit drab for a travel guide describing one of the most unusual and vibrant places on the planet.

Despite that tiny nit-pick, however, the book is truly an excellent resource that carefully outlines what visitors need to know, how they should prepare, and what they can expect to see. If you're considering a trip to the Antarctic, Below Freezing is a must, as it'll certainly help you decide if the time and money involved in planning and undertaking such a trip is right for you. Even if you're NOT planning on hitting the Antarctic any time soon, this stunning book will give you an additional perspective on this brutal, beautiful environment and make you respect Trotter and the other divers who regularly brave these icy waters. My hood is off to Trotter; I can't wait to read what she writes next!

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